Returning to my original home city was glorious after not living there for so long. The Irish' Summer' was splendid (yes, I did write that), and I spent most of the summer horse riding in the beautiful Phoenix Park - one of, if not the largest enclosed public park spaces in Europe and a delight in which to spend a beautiful Summer's Day - complete with 1000's of deer and stags pottering about the place which equates to instant Instagram fodder…
However, as much as I love my home town of Dublin, its fantastic cosy pubs and friendly people and genuine 'craic', I have to admit one of my favourite things to do when I head back to Ireland is to jump in the car and make a 5-6 night road trip 'down the country.'
A lot of the places I stayed in during my trip are featured on two websites
Both these accommodation sites feature historic-style properties full of history, old-world charm and all-ooze character.
For this trip, I primarily focused my destination on the west coast of Ireland. I call this area of Ireland a 'mini New Zealand', particularly the stunning Connemara area in Co. Galway. I find when you go to this part of the world, you feel you have left all your troubles behind and know you are going to meet the most friendly and warm people, stand staring at an abundance of jaw-dropping scenery, hear great live Irish music, drink loads of Guinness, eat excellent fresh seafood and local produce and feel like you've escaped the madness of the world for a few days.
The Wild Atlantic Way drive covers 9 counties and spans half the coastline of southern and western Ireland. It starts in Kinsale in West Cork, continuing up to the tip of Co. Donegal, covering 2500km. It has become a massive tourist draw for Ireland and stands to its reputation as one of the world's most beautiful drives.
I decided to make a bit of this trip last October and started by spending 1 night in Co. Wicklow – also known as 'The Garden of Ireland". Most people wouldn't go to Wicklow if heading to the west, but this area of Ireland is one of my most loved, and my sister lives there, so I had to stop in and say hello! Thanks to the M50 motorway that you take to drive down from Dublin, stunning mountains and lush scenery in about 40 minutes will surround you. Once you hit the area of Kilmacanogue (Pron. Kill-Ma-Can-ique) and see the 2 Sugar Loaf Mountains, you know you have left city life behind. In Kilmacanogue, stop off for a look around Avoca Handweavers, this location is one of the largest of a chain of Irish craft and homewares/foodie shops, which are jam-packed with incredible ceramics, clothes, and foodie delights, and they have lovely glass pavilion-style verandah restaurant and café there.
In June 2017, after 12 years living in Australia, I decided to do what a lot of Irish ex-pats do and return home for a trial period to see how I felt about living ‘back home’.
So furniture, camera gear, 1735 books, a load of pots and pans, 2 Aussie moggie cats and all, I packed up and shipped it all back to Dublin.
A further 20 mins drive south will bring you to the small town of Rathnew where I stopped off for my first night at Hunters Hotel. Hunter’s is famous amongst Wicklow and Dublin locals for its incredibly maintained gardens, full of the most sublime array of flowers and plants in full bloom in the summer months. It’s a wonderful place even to just stop off at and have afternoon tea or a G&T in the sun. Ireland's oldest coaching inn, the hotel has been operated by the Hunter/Gelletlie family since 1825 and is situated just 5 minutes from Mount Usher Gardens, one of Ireland's most celebrated gardens. Hunter's Hotel has been voted one of Ireland's Top Ten Most Beautiful Hotels by the Good Hotel Guide, 2016.
It’s a delight to stay in, little corridors, wonky floors abundant with old world charm, the cosy bar is a great place to have a pre-dinner drink before settling in for a few hours over dinner enjoying the best locally-sourced produce cooked to perfection in a somewhat traditional yet incredibly homely manner.
HUNTER’S HOTEL
With a beautifully cooked Irish breakfast in my belly, I left Hunter’s early the next day. I headed south towards Glendalough, a massive tourist attraction in Ireland. For thousands of years, people have been drawn to the valley of the two lakes for its spectacular scenery, rich history, archaeology and abundant wildlife. Glendalough is a remarkable place that stills your mind, inspires your heart and fills your soul.
The Glendalough Hotel is a great place to stay over. The food is fantastic beside the Monastic site - some of the best I have had in Ireland and reasonably priced.
After that, it was onto Dingle, a reasonably decent drive by Irish standards - 5.5 hours. However, you can break it up with a stopover for lunch in the town of Kilkenny or drive straight to the quaint town of Kinsale in west Cork, the starting point of the Wild Atlantic Way.
Dingle, Co. Kerry
Dingle is one of my all-time favourite towns in Ireland, and it's worth the drive. Situated right at the end of the Dingle peninsula in Co. Kerry. If you drive here from west Cork, you will notice a massive change in the scenery as it becomes much more rugged, and the coastline is dotted with sandy beaches. The town itself is full of quaint, very authentic pubs, including Dick Mack's, one of the most interesting and dates back to 1899. It's jam-packed with old-world charm and character. Live trad Irish music is often heard pouring out from its walls, and the Guinness flows on Tap. Try to nab the snug to sit in if you can. All the pubs, bars, and restaurants here thrive on supplying the most amazing fresh seafood. A big pot of fresh mussels with Irish brown bread and a pint of the black stuff must be enjoyed before a roaring fire in the evening.
A trip around the Slea Head Drive is a must when you are in Dingle. To do it properly, set aside about 4 hours. The drive is a circular route, forming part of the Wild Atlantic Way, beginning and ending in Dingle. It encompasses a large number of attractions and literally stunning views on the western end of the peninsula.
The Famine House Cottages on the drive is a must. The sight's elevation gives a fantastic panoramic view of nearby prehistoric Dúnbeg Fort, Dingle Bay, South Kerry and Skellig Rocks (Star Wars location) on a clear day. It's a moving experience that offers a real sense of what it would have been like to live in extreme poverty during the Great Irish Famine in the 1840s. A visitor to Ireland should experience this to understand the Irish and their history.
www.discoverireland.ie/Arts-Culture-Heritage/slea-head-famine-cottages-and-sheep-dog-trials/8483
Co. Clare
On leaving Dingle, I headed north towards Co. Clare to my next hotel destination, I stopped off – as is mandatory – to have another look at the stunning Cliffs of Moher in Lislorkan. These cliffs are one of Ireland’s most visited natural attractions and well worth a visit.
A fun thing to do a little inland from the cliffs is a trip to Father Ted’s House… or Glanquin House as it’s less famously known… This is the property used in the hugely popular TV comedy show. It’s a family-owned house and organic farm. The exterior was only used in the programme. Still, you can stop off, have afternoon tea inside and join in a guided walk of the Burren region, where they take you to famous locations featured in the show.
MOUNT VERNON
This is a gem of a guesthouse to stay in, situated in the heart of the Burren region of Ireland. Owned and run by Mark Helmore, a truly splendid chap, full of knowledge on anything and insanely warm and friendly.
Built in 1788, the Georgian Villa offers fine views over Galway Bay. It feels really secluded, but it’s only a 20 min walk to a good pub – Linnane’s Lobster Bar – which serves the best crab claws I have ever tasted.
The house offers two bedrooms to choose from, both beautifully and tastefully presented, offering warmth and total comfort. There is a cosy sitting room with a great honour bar. Breakfast is cooked by Mark, which is sumptuous and super tasty, including a selection of jams Mark makes himself. Dinner is available, too, if requested.
After leaving Mount Vernon, I made my way past Galway city. I headed out into the iconic Connemara area of Co. Galway. This is a bucket list area of Ireland and quite like nowhere else on the planet; its scenery is truly remarkable and quite jaw-dropping on many occasions.
I chose to drive the scenic coastal route and arrived at my next hotel around 7pm. The drive from Screebe to Cashel House Hotel as the light was fading is just another one of those outrageously scenic ones and not to be missed.
Co. Galway
Cashel House Hotel overlooks the majestic Cashel Bay on the west coast of Ireland. This 19th-century gracious country home is nestled in the heart of Connemara and surrounded by 50 acres of gardens and woodland walks.
It’s close to the vibrant town of Clifden and nearby Kylemore Abbey & Gardens, about a 20-minute drive away.
The bedrooms and suites are individually decorated and furnished with antiques presenting a charming chintzy country house style.
I enjoyed yet another fabulous meal of local produce and Connemara lamb. They serve dinner in a large glass conservatory-style room, which is super elegant and grand. I enjoyed a few pre and post-dinner drinks sitting in front of the fire in their cosy sitting room.
The following day I took advantage of pottering about their gloriously stunning flower and herb gardens, which are secluded and a joy to meander around. Full of little hidden pathways, nooks, and crannies, they were incredibly peaceful and a lovely highlight of the property.
After a leisurely drive through Connemara’s coastline, stopping off in Clifden for lunch, and then heading back inland to see more of the countryside’s visual delights, I headed towards my next hotel.
Delphi Lodge
Delphi Lodge is a stunning 1830s, 13-bedroom country house, fishing lodge and hotel set in the most spectacular setting I have seen in Connemara. It is surrounded by the tallest mountains in Connemara. It overlooks the lakes and rivers of the Delphi Valley, famous for its salmon and sea trout fishing. The drive there from Maam Cross via the small town of Leenaun is achingly beautiful, serene and rugged.
I stayed here for two nights. The house is charming and cosy, and the bedrooms are the same. The large sitting room and cosy library have fires roaring from early morning. Their approach at Delphi Lodge is that you’re not coming to stay in a hotel, but rather in their ‘home’ so as such, their gourmet dinners, which are lavish and insanely well prepared, cooked and presented, are set around a communal dining table, complete with candelabras and flowers. You dine with fellow guests, and there is a beautiful sense that you are a guest at a house party.
The following day I checked out of the lodge, packed up, and made my way to a place I had wanted to visit for years due to a close childhood friend raving about spending many a summer’s holiday there as a kid – Achill Island.
It’s a 2 and half-hour drive, so you can do it leisurely. On the way, I stopped off in Westport, an excellent buzzy town full of shops, restaurants, and cosy bars with incredible vibrancy. Achill sound and Achill island really do feel so remote. The island is made up of 87% peat bog, so driving onto it feels a little moon-like. There is very striking scenery at the beautiful sandy and expansive Keem Beach across the water, which reminded me of its similarities to parts of New Zealand, but on a slightly smaller scale.
More fresh seafood was consumed, and another pint in, and it was onto my final hotel of this journey. From Achill, it is just over a 1-hour drive back to the Enniscoe ion Co. Mayo area and the next and possibly most beautiful hotel, Enniscoe House, which sits on the edge of the expansive Lough Conn.
Enniscoe House, Co. Mayo
A family estate since the 1650s, this house dates from the 1790s. Susan is your host and head chef and is wonderfully welcoming. From the second you drive up the impressive avenue to walking through the oversized front door into the magnificently grand hallway, you know you will experience a piece of heritage during your stay.
Their 6 bedrooms are large and very fine in their grandeur, each with its own story. The one I stayed in made me immediately feel upon walking into it that I had been transported back in time and was in a Jane Austin novel… compete with a canopy bed and fine views over the expansive parkland and lake.
Drinks are enjoyed in the grand drawing room before a blazing fire, where you can meet and chat with the other guests. It's into the intimate yet sumptuous dining room for a feast of great food freshly prepared by Susan and sourced from the richly stocked organic market garden on the house's grounds.
